
STEP 01:
Transport options for getting from Cusco to Aguas Calientes
Taking the
Train to Machu Picchu - Buy your tickets well in advance
During the peak months of May to September all of the train tickets can be
sold out several days in advance. If you are on a tight schedule it is
absolutely essential that you make you train reservations as far in advance as
possible. Do not wait until you arrive in Cusco to buy your train tickets.
At the moment the only company operating trains to Machu Picchu is Peru Rail.
Since there's no competition the prices are quite high but the service is
generally good. Details of the train services, departure times and prices can be
found on their website www.perurail.com.
Peru Rail is part owned by Orient-Express Hotels Ltd so you actually get
re-directed to their website. Orient Express is an international company who also
run the 5 star Hotel Monasterio
in Cusco and the US$795 a night Sanctuary Lodge
in Machu Picchu.
As from the beginning of March 2008 Peru Rail have improved their online reservation
system and it is now fairly easy to make a booking and pay online using a VISA
card. Their website allows you to check availability and search for the cheapest
service available.
Important Note: If you want a return ticket from Cusco to Machu Picchu
during the peak months of May to September you may already find many of the
train services fully booked!! DON'T PANIC !! Only a few services actually
run all the way between Cusco and Machu Picchu, most of the train services run
just between Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu. Check for departures between
Ollantaytambo (Ollanta) and Machu Picchu (M.Picchu) - there should be plenty
available.
(i)
CUSCO - MACHU PICCHU BY TRAIN
By far the simplest method of getting to Aguas Calientes is to buy a
round-trip train ticket from Cusco. Peru Rail currently offer only 2 departures
a day to Machu Picchu from the station in Cusco. One of these departures is on the Vistadome service and one departure
on the Backpacker service.
CUSCO - MACHU PICCHU DEPARTURES
*Trains depart from the San Pedro train station in Cusco
Vistadome Train:
|
Departure |
Arrival |
Service* |
Price (one way) |
|
06:05 |
09:52 |
Premium |
US$ 71 |
Backpacker Train:
|
Departure |
Arrival |
Service* |
Price (one way) |
|
06:50 |
10:51 |
Premium |
US$ 48 |
MACHU PICCHU - CUSCO
Vistadome Train:
|
Departure |
Arrival |
Service* |
Price (one way) |
|
15:25 |
19:41 |
Premium |
US$ 71 |
Backpacker Train:
|
Departure |
Arrival |
Service* |
Price (one way) |
|
17:03 |
21:19 |
Premium |
US$ 48 |
*The above timetable and prices were taken from the Peru Rail website on 18
March 2008. Details may be subject to change. The information refers to
arrival & departure times at Machu Picchu. This should really read as Aguas
Calientes station. Walking from the train station to where the buses depart for
Machu Picchu plus the bus ride can add another 30 minutes to you journey
assuming that you don't have to queue for either your bus ticket or your
entrance ticket (see details below). When booking online passengers will receive
a confirmation voucher. This voucher must be exchanged for a paper ticket in the
San Pedro train station at least 1 hour prior to departure (best to do this the
day before departure to avoid delays). Please read details given in your
confirmation email for up-to-date instructions.
The Backpacker service is a comfortable service, everyone is seated with no
standing. Snacks and drinks are available at an extra cost. The Vistadome service
has slightly larger windows and also windows in the roof. This sound a bit
strange but much of the last hour and a half of the journey is through a
mountain valley so the windows in the roof help you to appreciate the scenery. A
snack and hot drink are included with the Vistadome service. There is also a table in front
of you and a little more leg room although I actually thought the seats in the
backpacker class were slightly more comfortable.
You have to arrive at the station 30 minutes before the departure time.
(ii) OLLANTAYTAMBO - MACHU PICCHU BY TRAIN
A combination of bus/taxi between Cusco and Ollantaytambo and then train
between Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes.
The round-trip services, as mentioned above, between Cusco and Aguas Calientes tend to fill up
pretty quickly so if they're full you'll have to travel by road from Cusco
to Ollantaytambo and then take the train between Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu.
Ollantaytambo is about 65 kilometres from Cusco along a scenic paved road. You
can take a taxi from Cusco to Ollantaytambo which takes about 1 hour 45 minutes
and costs about US$25. Alternatively you can take a local bus from Cusco to Urubamba and another local bus from Urubamba to Ollantaytambo which takes about
2 hours 30 minutes in total and costs about US$2 per person. Trains between
Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes take about 1 hour 30 minutes. You have to
arrive at the station 30 minutes before the departure time.
OLLANTAYTAMBO (SACRED VALLEY) - MACHU PICCHU
The Vistadome:
|
Departure |
Arrival |
Service* |
Price (one way) |
|
06:40 |
08:01 |
Premium |
US$ 60 |
|
07:05 |
08:27 |
Premium |
US$ 60 |
|
07:20** |
08:48 |
Premium |
US$ 60 |
|
07:45 |
09:11 |
Premium |
US$ 60 |
|
08:00 |
09:22 |
Premium |
US$ 60 |
|
10:32 |
12:10 |
Premium |
US$ 60 |
|
12:36** |
13:57 |
Regular |
US$ 60 |
|
12:54 |
14:20 |
Regular |
US$ 53 |
|
13:17 |
14:45 |
Regular |
US$ 53 |
|
15:05** |
16:40 |
Regular |
US$ 53 |
|
16:03 |
17:42 |
Economy |
US$ 43 |
The Backpacker:
|
Departure |
Arrival |
Service* |
Price (one way) |
|
05:37 |
07:01 |
Economy |
US$ 31 |
|
06:10** |
07:38 |
Premium |
US$ 43 |
|
08:53 |
10:23 |
Premium |
US$ 43 |
|
12:10 |
13:36 |
Regular |
US$ 34 |
|
18:58** |
20:32 |
Economy |
US$ 31 |
|
20:35 |
22:10 |
Economy |
US$ 31 |
MACHU PICCHU - OLLANTAYTAMBO (SACRED VALLEY)
The Vistadome:
|
Departure |
Arrival |
Service* |
Price (one way) |
|
08:30 |
10:10 |
Economy |
US$ 43 |
|
10:32 |
12:08 |
Regular |
US$ 53 |
|
10:55 |
12:30 |
Regular |
US$ 53 |
|
12:26** |
13:50 |
Regular |
US$ 53 |
|
13:37 |
14:57 |
Regular |
US$ 53 |
|
15:55 |
17:21 |
Premium |
US$ 60 |
|
16:20** |
17:44 |
Premium |
US$ 60 |
|
16:50 |
18:13 |
Premium |
US$ 60 |
|
17:25 |
18:51 |
Premium |
US$ 60 |
|
19:00 |
20:25 |
Economy |
US$ 43 |
The Backpacker:
|
Departure |
Arrival |
Service* |
Price (one way) |
|
05:35 |
07:44 |
Economy |
US$ 31 |
|
09:30 |
11:27 |
Economy |
US$ 31 |
|
13:58** |
15:38 |
Regular |
US$ 34 |
|
14:26 |
16:02 |
Regular |
US$ 34 |
|
18:03 |
19:35 |
Economy |
US$ 31 |
|
21:20** |
22:58 |
Economy |
US$ 31 |
** Only available from April to October
*The above timetable and prices were taken from the Peru Rail website on 18
March 2008. Details may be subject to change. The information refers to
arrival & departure times at Machu Picchu. This should really read as Aguas
Calientes station. Walking from the train station to where the buses depart for
Machu Picchu plus the bus ride can add another 30 minutes to you journey
assuming that you don't have to queue for either your bus ticket or your
entrance ticket (see details below). When booking online passengers will receive
a confirmation voucher. This voucher must be exchanged for a paper ticket at
least 1 hour prior to departure. Please read details given in your confirmation
email for up-to-date instructions.
STEP 02:
Bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu
The bus from Aguas Calientes up to Machu Picchu takes about 20 minutes and costs
US$6 each way (US$12 return). The ride itself is spectacular as the narrow track
winds its way up the mountainside. It can be a bit scary at times with almost
vertical drops plunging down into the Vilcanota Valley below especially when you
meet a bus coming in the other direction! The scenery is lush cloud forest with great
views of the sacred mountain Putucusi on the opposite side of the valley. If it wasn't for the rush to get to Machu Picchu this ride would
be an attraction in itself. If you look closely out of the window you can see
splashes of pink and orange flowers growing on the slopes - these are actually
the orchid Wiñay Wayna which can be commonly seen throughout the region.
The buses are clean and modern with air-conditioning (the whole fleet of 20
buses were renewed in 2006).
You have to buy your bus ticket before you get on the bus in the morning. There
is a small ticket office just opposite the departure point which opens at
5:15am. The first group of buses depart from Aguas Calientes at about 5:20am
then at 10 minute intervals throughout the day depending on demand until about
4pm. However if you really want to get to Machu Picchu early I would recommend
arriving by about 5:10am since during the peak season there can be quite a queue
by 5:30am!! It speeds things up if you buy your bus ticket in advance, either from
the ticket office in Aguas Calientes the night before or from the Consettur
offices in Cusco (located
in Avenida Pardo opposite Parque Espana - its a short walk from the main post
office or just ask a taxi driver to take you there which will cost 3 Soles /
US$1). Each bus departs when its full so by the time the 20th bus
departs Aguas Calientes the 1st bus is already on its way back.
The last buses depart Machu Picchu at about 5:30pm, be sure to check the time of the
last bus as it can be a long walk back to Aguas Calientes if you miss it (well
about 1 hour if you follow the more direct route rather than follow the road)
Why do so many people want to get to Machu
Picchu by 6am in the morning? Climbing Huayna Picchu.
A
few years ago you could wake up in Aguas Calientes, have breakfast and stroll
down to where the buses depart, buy your ticket, have another coffee and easily
get on the first bus at 6:30am arriving at Machu Picchu for just before 7am.
You'd be one
of the first people there. The next bus wouldn't arrive for another 20 minutes.
Although officially sun rise at Machu Picchu is at about 5:30am the sun doesn't
actually start to break out from behind the mountains until about 7:20am (give
or take 10 minutes due to variations throughout the year). So arriving at Machu
Picchu for about 7am in the morning is ideal as it takes about 10 minutes
to walk up to the Watchman's Hut which offers the best views over Machu Picchu.
As from May 2007 the government has put a limit of 400 on the number of people who can
climb Huayna Picchu, the mountain that you see rising up behind Machu Picchu.
This means that during the peak season if you really want to be among the lucky
(or mad!) 400 you really have to make the effort to get up early. As soon as you
enter Machu Picchu its recommended that you make your way over to the base of Huayna
Picchu where you'll find a small hut handing out the tickets to climb. The
tickets are free. The first 200 people can climb Huayna Picchu straight away,
however they all have to be back down by 10am when the 2nd group of 200 can make
the climb. It takes about an hour to reach the top climbing slowly - not
recommended for sufferers of vertigo. The narrow trail can be quite dangerous at
times after wet weather. Unfortunately if you are arriving by the Inca Trail or by train
the same day then it is becoming increasingly difficult (in fact almost
impossible in the peak months) to climb Huayna Picchu the same day. You'll just have to spend the
night in Aguas Calientes and return early the following morning.
STEP 03: Entrance
to Machu Picchu
|
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Tickets to enter Machu Picchu can no longer be bought at the entrance to
Machu Picchu itself. You now have to buy the entrance tickets at the
Machu Picchu Cultural Centre in Aguas Calientes (10m from the main Plaza, opens at
5:15am). The entrance fee is 122 Peruvian Soles (which is approximately
US$44). There is a 50% discount for students with a valid ISIC card.
They only accept payment in Peruvian Soles and rarely have any
change so make sure that you take the exact amount. If you don't
they'll just tell you to come back when you have the correct change -
which can be difficult at 5:15am !! If you can, best to buy the entrance
tickets the day before.
Alternatively you can buy the tickets in Cusco at the Instituto Nacional
de Cultura (INC) offices which can be found at Calle San Bernado a few
blocks from the main Plaza de Armas). The tickets are valid for 3 days
from the day of purchase which means you have time to travel to Aguas
Calientes, stay the night and enter Machu Picchu the following morning.
However once you enter Machu Picchu they are only valid for that day. If
you want to return to Machu Picchu the following day then you have to
buy another ticket!! |
Machu Picchu opens at 6am and stays open until 6pm. You can take small bags into the ruins but anything larger must
be left at the luggage store near the entrance for US$1.5 a piece.
Machu Picchu is a lot quieter before 11am and after 3:30pm. Monday is the
busiest day, as many people head off to Machu Picchu after visiting Pisac market
on Sunday. Sunday is one of the quietest days. June, July, August and September
are the busiest months when as many as 2500 people visit the ruins
everyday. Even during the low season you can expect between 1500 and 2000
visitors per day.
STEP 04:
Guided Tour
Guides are available at the site. Expect to pay around US$20 per guide for a 2
hour private tour. You may be lucky and find a group that you can join for as
little as US$3 per person depending on the size of the group. Check that the guide
speaks a language that you understand !! If you don't want to spend half your
time listening to the descriptions again in Spanish go with a guide that
is going to speak just in English (the information will be more in-depth and
informative). Guides are not mandatory and you can enter Machu Picchu and
explore it on your own or with the help of a guidebook (or you can just stand
next to one of the several places of interest and listen to the explanations
given by someone else's guide!)
A description of the ruins in detail is beyond the
scope of this web site. For an excellent guide try Peter Frost's Exploring Cusco which can be
bought quite inexpensively in Cusco. As the name suggests it also has plenty of
information about Cusco, the Sacred Valley and the Inca Trail. The website
www.machupicchuperu.info has some good photos and tourist information.
Optional: Staying an
Extra night
If you want longer at the ruins or want to see them at sunrise when the light
is more gentle and there are fewer visitors then you'll have to stay the night.
You can stay at the super expensive US$750 a night Machu Picchu Sanctuary
Lodge, which is the only hotel adjacent to Machu Picchu ruins, or you can spend the night in one of the
many hotels in Aguas
Calientes.
There's not a great deal to do in Aguas Calientes
- it doesn't rate as a
particularly pretty town being built mostly of concrete, much of which looks
half finished, but I think visitors will agree that it does have its own individual
charm and character. There's a feel of a frontier town about it, with the
railway forming the high street and the steamy jungle-clad mountains closing in
on all sides.
There are plenty of restaurants and hotels in the town and its main attraction
are the thermal springs which gives Aguas (waters) Calientes (hot) its name. The
outdoor springs are situated 15 minutes walk up from the town centre. They are fairly
basic, with facilities to change and shower, and are used by the locals as much
as the tourists, but it's a great place to relax, buy a beer, and enjoy the views.
Taking the easy option - buying a tour
Note: Peru Treks does not offer this
service. You must purchase this service with another company.
There are hundreds of tour companies in Cusco and Lima queuing up to sell you a
space on their tours to Machu Picchu, as well as specialist (and not so
specialist) international tour operators. Most local operators offer a simple
one day excursion from Cusco to Machu Picchu including all transport and a
professional guide (check to see if the guide speaks good English). It is also
worth checking to see what is the maximum number of people in the group. A group of up to
16 persons is easily manageable for a tour guide but more than 20 becomes
difficult. I've seen plenty of guides in Machu Picchu with groups as big as 40
people trailing after them so make sure the maximum group size is put in writing
when you sign up. Also make sure that everything included in the price is
clearly listed. Consider items such as the transfer from you hotel, train tickets to Aguas
Calientes (service and departure times), bus tickets between Aguas Calientes and
Machu Picchu, Machu Picchu entrance fees, guide (is the tour in English only),
any meals etc. You'll usually have about 4 hours at the ruins themselves